moon valley atacama dessert
Chile

San Pedro de Atacama, a must-visit

Chile is really big, fun fact: it is the longest country in the world. Unless you have a few months at your disposal to visit it through and through, you have to make choices, visit some places and leave others for another time. So I did, I decided to visit the city that lies in the midst of the world’s driest desert, where areas of it might have never experienced rainfall.

Why did I choose San Pedro de Atacama?

I don’t know about you, but I was puzzled between visiting San Pedro de Atacama and Patagonia, or at least the part of Patagonia that lies in Chilean soil. I know many many people have had life changing experience when facing the amazing glaciers of Patagonia, and I lost count of everyone that told me I should put that on the top of my list. I chose to go the other way, and visit the desert for a change. I did that because upon google-ing I came across the following fun facts about the Atacama dessert:

It’s soil is similar to the one in Mars

I figured since chances of me going to Mars are very limited, I should go to the next in line closest to the real thing. I have always been fascinated with Mars the planet anyways. If you didn’t know, Nasa actually tests equipments being sent to Mars in this desert, due to the similar conditions. I was already in awe looking at parts of the desert from the air, before the plane made it to the airport. It almost helped me forgot about the turbulences during landing, and given my fright of flights, that’s a big thing.

Stargazing

The last time I saw a sky full of stars was when I had 11 years old and I was visiting my grandmother during summer, in this village high up in the mountains in Albania. I still remember it as one of the most beautiful moments of my life. I never saw that sky ever again, until the Atacama Desert, which is apparently the best place in the world for stargazing. If you’re walking the streets of San Pedro de Atacama, you will see many many shops offering stargazing tours. They will typically start around 09.00pm or later and last for 3 hours or so. I will definitely recommend this activity if you want to feel closer to the stars, see how a nebulae looks like and feel the texture of the moon. Another fun fact: the desert is home to the largest ground telescope in the world, ALMA.

Eroded rocks and salty lagoons

I’m so glad I opted for a group trip to visit the places I did. As someone who’s bad with directions, I quickly realized that the reception outside of town was spotty at best. The thought of being lost in the vast, breathtaking desert with my terrible sense of direction was both epic and terrifying.

One of the highlights of the trip was visiting Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna), which is a natural attraction located about 17km further from the town. The valley is known for its otherworldly landscapes and unique geological formations, which were created by wind and water erosion over millions of years. I was completely awestruck by the experience, and words can’t describe how I felt. The vast expanse of space was incredible, we were crossing it by car, but if you like to walk or bike, that is possible too. When I close my eyes and picture myself there, this is what I see:

And more:

Visiting the valley on a sunny day is a truly remarkable experience. The salt crystals shimmer and gleam, creating the illusion of walking through a field of sparkling diamonds. It’s a truly breathtaking sight that leaves you feeling as though you’ve been transported to another world.

Another place I visited, was the Lagunas Baltinache, which are a group of seven saltwater lagoons located in the Atacama Desert, and have a high salt concentration. The salt density or salinity level varies depending on the specific lagoon, but it can reach up to 40% in some of them, making the water extremely dense. To put this in perspective, the salt concentration in the oceans typically ranges between 3.1% and 3.8%. The high salt concentration in the Lagunas Baltinache makes them a unique and popular destination for visitors who want to experience floating on the water’s surface.

Trying to keep my balance while floating on the water was a bit of a challenge, and I found myself swaying from side to side. Nonetheless, I’m really glad I gave it a try. I visited the Lagunas Baltinache in April, when the weather was perfect for taking a dip in the warm water. However, due to the high salt content, it’s important to rinse yourself thoroughly after swimming, and stay hydrated to avoid dehydration.

So if you’re traveling by yourself, make sure to bring extra bottles of water, and if you’re traveling with a tour guide, chances are they have a portable shower to help you rinse the salt off.

Accomodation

The town has a variety of accommodations ranging from rustic hostels to luxury hotels. Many hotels are designed to blend in with the natural surroundings and incorporate local materials and architectural styles.

One common hotel style in the area is the adobe-style building, which uses mud and straw to create a sustainable and traditional construction. Other hotels feature rustic decor with wooden accents, while some offer a more modern design with minimalist furnishings. Many hotels in the area also offer outdoor spaces such as patios or terraces for guests to enjoy the spectacular desert views and clear skies. Personally, when I’m in a remote location like San Pedro de Atacama, I prefer to opt for more modest accommodations rather than luxury hotels. For my stay, I chose a room at a highly-rated hostel in the area. It’s important to me to have a comfortable and clean place to rest after a long day of exploring, and I found that the hostel offered everything I needed

Hostal Illari

Located just a few minutes’ walk from the town’s main square, this hostel couldn’t have been in a better location. The hosts were incredibly friendly, ensuring that I had everything I needed during my stay. And the breakfast – it was simply delicious! The host of the house personally prepared my eggs each morning, and they were some of the tastiest eggs I have ever had.

The setting was modest, but the warm and welcoming atmosphere more than made up for it. I highly recommend this place for anyone looking for a comfortable and cozy stay. While the room’s decor was not my personal preference – with a lot of wood – I understand it’s in line with the town’s aesthetic. But what mattered most to me was that the room was immaculate and the bed was exceptionally comfortable.

The patio of the hotel

The hotel room

Food

Chilean food is among the best I’ve ever tasted. I particularly enjoyed the “Menu del dia” concept, which includes a soup or salad, a meat or fish main dish, a small dessert and a drink. As a vegetarian, I found that nearly 70% of the places I visited had a vegetarian option, so I didn’t have any trouble finding meals. Here are some of the places I’d recommend:

La Franchuteria

This restaurant is located near the town’s city center and is surrounded by trees, giving it a forest-like feel. They serve a variety of sandwiches and desserts. I had an orange juice and a croissant, but the croissant was a bit stale. The restaurant’s main appeal is its location in the midst of nature, which creates a relaxing atmosphere. I would personally not go back for the food, but for a juice or a coffee, it was perfect. The restaurant was a bit more expensive than other options around the area.

Barros Restaurant

I had the day menu at this restaurant and the food was simple, but delicious. I really enjoyed the atmosphere, service, and music, so I went back a couple of times. The prices were reasonable, and I paid around $9 for the full menu.

The restaurant

A falafel salad, delicious

Adobe

This restaurant is highly recommended in San Pedro de Atacama for its unique stone-like architecture, bar location, and quality of dishes. While the food was good, I personally found better food in Chile, especially for the price. The vegetarian option wasn’t the best and I didn’t feel compelled to try it again. I generally try to avoid touristy places, but I gave it a chance this time. I still highly recommend this place for its great ambiance. It’s an excellent spot to grab some appetizers and drinks.

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