I was born and raised in Albania, in a small town called Çorovodë. However, when I was around 9 years old, my parents decided to move our family to Tirana. The capital city provided better educational opportunities and a chance for a better life. I spent most of my childhood and young adult years in Tirana, until I was 22 years old. Since then, I have lived in several different cities across Austria and The Netherlands. While these countries are considered some of the top places to live in Europe, I have to admit that Tirana still holds a special place in my heart. Even as a visitor, there is something about the city that draws me back time and time again.

Tirana can be a hit or miss for many people visiting it, as it can be overwhelming at times. The city can be absolutely chaotic, with streets overloaded with cars and resulting in crazy traffic and impatient drivers honking their horns. It’s like the city is part of a musical every day. Whenever I visit, I have mixed feelings. During the first 2-3 days, I struggle to adapt, but once I feel like I am settling in, the energy I get in this city is compared to none, and I have visited a lot of places in my life.

I am a local, therefore every time I visit Tirana, I don’t really go to any historical building or museum, I focus on the entertaining part of the city. However, I would suggest you visit Bunk’Art, which is a former nuclear bunker built during the communist era. Bunk’Art consists of multiple floors and features exhibits and artefacts related to Albania’s communist period, including propaganda posters, photographs, and audiovisual displays. The museum also includes interactive exhibits that allow visitors to experience what life was like inside the bunker.

What do you need to know about Tirana

If you’re planning a trip to Tirana, it’s important to know that the city is located in central Albania and is easily accessible from other parts of the country. The city is situated between the Dajti Mountain and the Adriatic Sea, providing great views and outdoor activities.

The climate in Tirana is Mediterranean, with hot summers and mild winters. However, I would suggest avoiding visiting Tirana during the months of mid-June until mid-late September, as it can be extremely hot and humid, and not very pleasant for tourists. Most bars and restaurants have air conditioning inside, but if you’re thinking of enjoying a drink on a terrace, think twice, as it can still be about 30 degrees Celsius at 8:00 pm.

Is it Safe?

I still get surprised, especially when white-heterosexual people ask me if Tirana is safe. For me, Tirana is the safest place (exceptions may apply, see post here). I feel much safer walking around Tirana at night than I would in other major European cities. While there may be some cases of petty crime like theft, I have never personally experienced any threatening situation in Tirana. The only thing to watch out for is driving in Tirana and Albania in general, where drivers rely less on traffic signs and more on eye contact. If you think you have the right of way, it’s best to double-check with other cars before proceeding. Don’t assume that other drivers will follow the traffic rules or see you. Always use caution and pay close attention to the traffic around you. Pedestrians can also be unpredictable, so it’s important to be aware of them as well. But overall, as long as you take basic precautions, Tirana is a safe city to visit.

In Albania, hospitality is deeply ingrained in the culture and traditions. There is a famous Albanian proverb that says “An Albanian’s house is the dwelling of God and the guest”, which reflects the value and respect that Albanians have for their visitors. Albanians take pride in their hospitality and are known to go out of their way to make guests feel welcome and comfortable. Visitors are often treated as honoured guests, and it is not uncommon for Albanians to offer food and drink to strangers as a gesture of hospitality. In fact, it is considered impolite to refuse such offerings. So, if you ever have the opportunity to visit Albania, be prepared to experience a warm and welcoming culture that values its guests.

What I like doing in Tirana

Tirana is a city of contrasts. You can find beautiful and ugly buildings side by side, modern and crumbling structures, all intermixed with colourful, rustic communist-era architecture. The same Prime Minister has been in power for the past decade, and while I don’t want to delve into politics, being an artist himself, he has played a role in the city’s transformation into the colourful mess it is today. I have mixed feelings how I feel about this mess, sometimes I love it, sometimes I don’t.

I love walking everywhere in the main ring and especially in the following main boulevards:

• “Zog I Boulevard” named after King Zog I, who ruled Albania from 1928 to 1939.
• “Bajram Curri Boulevard” pays tribute to Bajram Curri, a prominent leader of the Albanian national movement in the early 20th century. This street spans approximately 1.5 kilometers and connects two of Tirana’s major squares, Skanderbeg Square and Mother Teresa Square. The boulevard’s buildings reflect the Italian invasion’s influence, with many state buildings built during that time.
• “Martyrs of the Nation Boulevard” is dedicated to all the recognized martyrs of the Albanian nation and is among my personal favorites.

Walking down these streets it just gives me a pump of energy, just being in the midst of the people and the noise. I especially love where there is a coffee place on every corner. Tirana has the highest number of coffee shops per capita in Europe, and it’s hard to find a building that doesn’t have a bar on the ground floor, especially those built after the 1990s. Coffee is a big part of life in Tirana, and it’s rare to find a place that makes bad coffee. Most of the bars in Albania are, I would dare to say, very modern and luxurious, in the way they look. Since competition is so high in this business, bar owners get very creative to attract more customers.

If you’re looking for a great place to work in Tirana, one of my top recommendations is Bar Destil. It’s conveniently located near the city center, and the spacious environment is perfect for getting some work done. Plus, the staff there are incredibly friendly and accommodating.

In case you’re planning to stay in Tirana for a while and looking for shared working environments, I believe there are some setups available at Bar Destil that might be worth looking into. It’s definitely a great option if you’re looking for a comfortable and productive workspace. I had this great pancake there for less than 1.6€.

Coffee shops are a popular spot for business meetings, family gatherings, and socialising in Tirana. People can sit for hours, sipping their coffee, without anyone bothering them to leave. My mother and her friends sit in the same coffee shop in our building for at least four hours every day. When she visits me in The Netherlands, she complains that waiters clean the table as soon as they see you’re finished with your drink. She actually taught me a trick – Balkan minds finding workarounds! I usually order a coffee and a small cake to go with it. She suggested getting the sweet when I’m finished with my drink so that we can stay a bit longer and enjoy the cake without being rushed by the waiter.

I find myself visiting the area around the “New Bazaar” (Pazari i Ri) more and more often, since it was renovated a couple of years ago. There is a daily market which provides a great variety of local food, which tends to be more expensive then the rest of the markets around Tirana, but I love strolling around the area.

On a nice sunny day, before lunch time you’ll find me by Tirana’s artificial lake, which is an enormous green space full of trees and people walking or exercising. I suggest buying a fruit juice or smoothie from one of the many food and drink stands in the area and sitting on a bench to enjoy it. Personally, I always go for the mixture they call “The juice of life”, which is a blend of carrot, apple, and beet. It has a wonderfully earthy taste that I love!

Near the artificial lake, you’ll find a creperie that has been around since 2004, and in my opinion, it serves some of the best crepes I’ve ever tasted. I may be biased because of the memories I have associated with the place, but I still recommend that you try it out. The creperie is called “Creperie P.N.L“, named after the high school located right across the street, which is named after “Petro Nini Luarasi”. For the quality it has to offer, it’s very cheap. I’ve heard that new creperie places have been popping up around the city, but I remain loyal to my favorite spot. I’ve given the crepes at D’Angelo, a big chain from Albania, a try, but they just don’t quite hit the mark for me. Although D’Angelo’s restaurants have a fancier setting compared to the more casual vibe of P.N.L, I keep coming back to P.N.L for their delicious crepes.

When it comes to lunchtime options in Albania, the choices can be overwhelming. As a local, I recommend sticking with restaurants that offer traditional Albanian dishes, as well as those that serve a mix of Greek, Italian, and Turkish cuisine. Albanian food is a fusion of these influences and truly offers a unique culinary experience.

While there are plenty of newer establishments that offer cuisine from around the world, such as Chinese, Indian, and Japanese, in my humble opinion, the quality of food at these places is often subpar. There are, of course, exceptions to this, but typically, the best quality food comes at a higher price point.

If you’re visiting Albania and unsure of where to eat, I highly recommend checking out this amazing local food critic’s Instagram page (Emas Light). She provides insightful opinions on hotels and restaurants throughout Albania, which can be translated with ease using Google Translate. In my opinion, there’s no better guide when it comes to finding the best dining options in Albania.

In the late afternoon, you’ll often find me wandering around the neighbourhood behind the pyramid of Tirana, across the “Deshmoret e Kombit” boulevard, particularly on Rruga e Salës (which is named after one of Albania’s main political figures, Sali Berisha, who lives on that street). While the street is officially called “Mustafa Matohiti,” it’s better known by its unofficial name.

Compared to the popular Blloku area, Rruga e Salës may not be as well-known among tourists, but in my opinion, the atmosphere and quality of bars in this street and the parallel streets are much better.

I’m a bit old-school, and I’ve been frequenting the same bar since I was a teenager – it’s called “Meduza.” They serve some great finger food, and the atmosphere is always pleasant.

If you’re up for a bit of a walk, I highly recommend checking out the “Komiteti” bar, which is just a 5-minute stroll down the street. It has a cool, hippie vibe with a communist-style decor that’s definitely worth seeing. They offer a wide selection of Albanian raki, with hundreds of variations to choose from, along with other local liquors. Personally, I’m a big fan of their clove liquor – be sure to give it a try when you’re there.

Lastly, if you’re seeking a serene getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city, I highly recommend visiting Farka Lake, which is just a 10-minute drive from the city center. Another personal favorite of mine is Peza Village, which is about 35 minutes’ drive from Tirana. The village is known for its fantastic local cuisine, and there are several restaurants in the area worth exploring. Additionally, if you opt for a scenic drive up to Mount Dajti instead of taking the cable car, you’ll find a plethora of excellent restaurant options to choose from.

My beautiful Tirana

Here are some of the places I love to visit during my stays in Tirana. I have added a caption to each image, if you’d like to know the name of the bar, restaurant or location.