Any Google search for “Day trips from Santiago” or “Cities to visit near Santiago” will undoubtedly recommend Valparaíso as a top destination. But don’t just take my word for it, try it yourself! Like any curious and adventurous person, I followed Google’s suggestion and planned a trip to Valparaíso, or “Valpo” as the locals call it.

As I headed to the bus station in Santiago to buy a ticket, I was confronted with a long queue on a hot summer day. Instead of braving the heat and the crowds, I decided to try a different mode of transportation: a shared taxi.

For a fare of about 20,000 CLP (about $27), the taxi took me and a few other passengers on a speedy 1.45-minute journey to Valpo. While the driver did squeeze three of us into the back of a small car, the taxi ended up being a convenient and cost-effective option. Just keep in mind that there’s no official system for sharing taxis (at least not to my knowledge), so you’ll have to go to the bus station and listen for drivers calling out for Valpo-bound passengers.”

I didn’t think to negotiate where the taxi should drop me off before getting in because I assumed it would take me all the way to my Airbnb. However, it turns out there was a fixed drop-off point for the taxi, which was the main bus station in Valpo. Oops!” As I stepped out of the taxi at the main bus station in Valpo, I was immediately hit with the strong smell of rust mixed with pee. By this point, I was used to the smell, but the city still seemed chaotic and underwhelming. I pulled out my phone and opened Google Maps, entered my Airbnb address in Cerro Concepción, and saw that it was a 25-minute walk away. Since I prefer to walk whenever possible, I started following the navigation.

However, it wasn’t long before I found myself struggling up a very steep hill, dragging my luggage behind me. The Airbnb was also proving to be very difficult to find, or at least that’s what I thought (it could also be that I’m just terrible with directions). Despite my frustration, I was grateful that I hadn’t rented a car, as I’m sure the steep uphill roads would have been even more challenging to navigate.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, I arrived at my Airbnb and my journey in Valpo really began

Accommodation in Cerro Concepción

After spending a week in a hotel in Santiago, I thought I would give Airbnb a chance. I wanted to have the option of cooking at home and having a more leisurely breakfast, rather than eating out at a restaurant every day. Plus, since I had packed light, I needed a place to wash my clothes.

I found a beautiful Airbnb in Cerro Concepción, a neighbourhood known for its vibrant arts and music scene. However, upon arriving at the Airbnb, I was disappointed to find that the place wasn’t as clean as I would have liked. My pet peeve is finding small hairs, and unfortunately, I found a few in the Airbnb. The kitchen also didn’t look very clean, which put me off from cooking anything at all. It was a shame, because the reviews for this Airbnb were great and the owners were very nice people.

As I stepped out of my Airbnb in Cerro Concepción, it was like seeing the city for the first time. I couldn’t believe that I had missed the incredible murals on my way up the hill – was I really that tired? The art in this neighborhood is truly amazing, with bold and beautiful pieces adorning almost every home.

I took my time wandering through the labyrinthine streets, marveling at the charming houses and colorful street art. It was easy to get lost in the maze of narrow lanes, and I found myself retracing my steps a few times. But I didn’t mind, as there was always something new and interesting to see around every corner.

Overall, I was blown away by the creativity and beauty of Cerro Concepción. This neighborhood truly feels like an open-air museum, with art and beauty at every turn.

I explored without a plan

I didn’t really have a plan of places to visit, so I ended up just walking around, checking out the art and sipping on some store-bought wine. I tried to find Pablo Neruda’s house once, but I’m terrible with directions and Valpo’s a labyrinth, so I gave up pretty soon. I probably passed by his house multiple times, but I’ll never know. I also hopped on the Ascensor Concepción, the oldest funicular in Valpo, not knowing what it was until later. While I understand the historical and engineering significance of the structure, built in 1883, it would not be disappointment for me to have missed it.

I’m glad I don’t let social media and mainstream recommendations influence me too much. Every post I saw online was suggesting not to miss the piano stairs. Valpo is not that big, so one way or another I did end up there, and it looked nice, but I still don’t get all the fuss about those stairs. Not while there were some truly impressive pieces in the city that blew my mind.

My suggestions for anyone that cares is: If you are not an art connoisseur like myself, but you do enjoy art, get yourself a drink, some snacks and just wander around the city, there are literally hundreds or more of street art you can look at and appreciate.

Things I wish I knew before visiting

I know this is a catchy title, but I really wish I had known that going to the beach in the city was not an option. I remember reading suggestions from other visitors that said you could go to Valpo and enjoy lounging on the beach, but I didn’t find any such spot in the city. Of course, I should have thought of that; Valpo being a port city, full of cargo ships coming back and forth, the water was heavily polluted. There are, of course, places nearby that you can access by car or bus, that seemed a bit more decent for going to the beach.

I found Valparaiso to be dirty, with sticky sidewalks that seemed to be caused by drunken tourists. Honestly, I did not feel safe. I was not harmed in any way, but the overall atmosphere did not give me a sense of security. This may have been due to the isolated stairways, which were often littered with beer cans. If you are traveling alone like I was, I would recommend avoiding these stairways in the evening and sticking to the main paths instead.